The Making of All American Buttercreams

Starting in the early 1800s, the Industrial Revolution was on the march and innovations were on the rise. While the U.S. was embroiled in a Civil War, Europeans were creating innovations in the world of chocolate. Among the leaders were the British Quakers with such familiar names as the Cadburys, Rowntree, and Frys who went onto pioneer the use of factory methods for making chocolate and the steam engine for grinding beans.

The new possibilities for chocolate were endless, producing enrobed creations be they chocolate bonbons, truffles with gnash centers, or creams aka “buttercreams.” Buttercreams, as with all chocolates of distinction, were French. By French, the chocolates weren’t necessary from

France, but were in the “French style,” such as the French style cream-filled candy introduced in 1851 at the Great Exhibition in London.

Buttercreams won an adoring audience in the US, who have long been enamored in all things French. During the post-Civil War, U.S. confectioners devoted themselves to their existence. Others, such as the illustrious Shrafft’s Confectionary of Boston, made them en masse then wholesaled them to smaller companies. Shrafft also carried chocolates in their own retail shops, complete with the French-ish names such as “D’Or Elegante,” and distinct gold-hued packaging. Their ads said:

“From the French comes the motif for this distinguished package, but only Schrafft could have supplied such chocolates. Search among the most exclusive shops of London, Paris, Rome-you will find nothing to compare to them. The golden box of chocolates is now offered for the first time. It contains the daintiest of our French truffle, nuts, fruits, and cream centers.”

Mais oui.

Not all creams were touted as being “French” but all did have upscale sounding assortments with names like “Society Chocolates,” “Lady Fairfax Chocolates,” and “Paradise Chocolate.” Their advertising was sensual and sublime. Here’s one from Mead Chocolate in 1920:

“A box of Belle Mead chocolates is an open door to the magic realms of chocolatry where all’s delicious. Made from the purest ingredients moulded into sweets of rare delight-into bon bons and raspberry creams, into peppermint and orange paste, mapled creams and caramels, and many other luscious morsels.”

Buttercreams Today

The advertising has changed, but creams are still luxuriously sweet and flavorful. They’re given as gifts, delicious as dessert, and always a treat.